Zona Velha (Old Town)

Rua de Santa Maria and its painted doors — Funchal's best evening.

Narrow lane of painted doorways on Rua de Santa Maria in Funchal's old town
Photo: Dietmar Rabich · CC BY-SA 4.0

The oldest part of the city, a grid of narrow lanes east of the cathedral where an art project turned every doorway into a canvas. It is where Funchal eats and drinks after dark.

The painted doors

The Arte Portas Abertas project began in 2010 and now covers well over a hundred doors along Rua de Santa Maria and the surrounding lanes. Some are beautiful, some are odd, and the whole street changes as doors are repainted.

Walk it in the late afternoon when the light is low and the restaurant tables have not yet filled the pavement.

Eating and drinking

The strip is dense with restaurants, and quality varies sharply — the ones with someone outside waving a menu are rarely the best. Look for espetada on a bay skewer, black scabbard fish with banana, limpets, and poncha made in front of you.

The Mercado dos Lavradores sits at the western end, and the cable car station at the eastern end.

Local tips

  • Book a table at weekends — the good places fill by 8pm.
  • Fort São Tiago at the end of the street is worth the short climb for the bay view.

Guided trips here

Bookable tours that include or focus on this spot.

  • Funchal waterfront and old town at golden hour
    2 hours Funchal

    Funchal Old Town & Monte Toboggan Tour

    A private tuk-tuk through the painted doors of the Zona Velha, up to Monte and the famous wicker toboggan ride back down.

  • Colourful produce stalls at Funchal's Mercado dos Lavradores
    3.5 hours Funchal

    Madeira Wine & Food Tour

    A guided walk through Funchal's old town tasting Madeira wine, local dishes and market produce, with the stories behind each stop.

  • Funchal & Monte: Private Sidecar Tour with Toboggan Stop in Madeira
    2 hours Funchal 5.0(35)

    Funchal & Monte: Private Sidecar Tour with Toboggan Stop

    Embark on an unforgettable journey through Funchal's downtown with a passionate local guide, cruising in style on a classic motorcycle with a sidecar.

  • Old Funchal Walking Tour in Madeira
    2 hours Funchal 4.7(585)

    Old Funchal Walking Tour

    Your 2-hour tour to the emblematic monuments of this part of the town will be guided by a former university student or a European volunteer (European Voluntary Service - part of the European Union's Erasmus+ programme) integrated…

  • Funchal Old Town & Christ the Redeemer Tour – East Coast Views in Madeira
    2 hours Funchal 5.0(27)

    Funchal Old Town & Christ the Redeemer Tour – East Coast Views

    Embarking from your hotel or cruise ship, our journey begins with a visit to Funchal's City Centre and enchanting Old Town.

  • Private Tour Nun's Valley Halfday in Madeira
    3 hours Madeira 5.0(46)

    Private Tour Nun's Valley Halfday

    Our half day starts at Pico dos Barcelos viewpoint, a very nice view of all Funchal, where we can see different locations of the city and have an amazing sight for lovely pictures.

Stay nearby

Where to base yourself for this part of the island.

Nearby

Within a short drive, so they combine into one day.

Read next